The idea to dig a pond on the site came to mea few years ago. But, since this work is time-consuming and difficult in terms of creativity, its start was delayed for a long time. Finally, during the next holiday, I decided to take up the case and steps to perform all the steps required to create a pond. It was decided to make a film a pond, lined with geotextile. Ambushed his plants and make the fish. For fish to set the aerator. water circulation is also planned by a small waterfall with three cascades. It was made originally, before digging the foundation pit under the pond, from the pile of stones laid on the man-made earthen mound. The water circulates in a closed circle of the pond to the waterfall with an inexpensive pump bottom.
That's all the raw data. Now pristuplyu directly to the story of the construction of the pond, trying not to miss details.
First I took a shovel and dug a pit toplan dimensions 3x4 m. Form tried to do a natural, rounded, with no sharp angles. After all, the nature of coastlines is always smooth, with no straight lines, these should be followed when creating an artificial pond. At the deepest point of the excavation reached 1.6 meters below ground level. It would be possible to do less, but in my case it is assumed divorce wintering fish, which requires a minimum of 1.5-1.6 meters.
On the rise of the pit made 3 terraces. First (shallow) - at a depth of 0.3 m, the second - 0.7 m, the third - 1 m. All 40 cm wide, to be able to install them on the pots. Terracing is carried out for a more natural kind of water surface. As well as for aquatic plants, the type of which will depend on the number of terraces and their depth. It is necessary to think in advance. For planting cattail, for example, need depth - 0.1-0.4 m for nymphs - 0.8-1.5 m.
Pit under the pond should be multilevel, with several terraces
The pit was dug, selected stones and roots ofand bottom walls. Of course, you can immediately begin to film the deck, but this version seemed to me too risky. Firstly, seasonal shifts soil can lead to the fact that stones which are in soil column, change their position and sharp edges break through the film. The same thing happens if the roots of trees or shrubs growing near, reach the film. And the last factor - on our site has a mouse who dig tunnels and, if desired, to easily get to the film. I need protection. Namely - geotextiles. He just will not let rodents, roots, and other unpleasant factors damage the film.
I bought a geotextile 150 g / m2Neatly laid out and it has got a bit of edge to the beach (about 10-15 cm - how it happened). Temporarily fixed stones.
Geotextile is laid with the edges of the institution to the shore
Perhaps the most responsible stage - creationwaterproofing. They can be ignored if the hydrogeological conditions of your site allow you to create natural reservoirs. But such cases are very rare and it is better not to risk it, so you do not have to redo everything.
Thus, the need waterproofing. In my case, it is - thick butyl rubber film is specially designed for ponds and reservoirs.
Initially, you want to discourage the use ofPolyethylene films sold in the ordinary hardware stores and greenhouses used for upholstery. Especially if you have a pond large enough. This isolation will lie 1-2 years, and then, most likely, will leak and will have to redo everything. Excess headache and expenditure provided. Need a special film for ponds - PVC or butyl rubber. The last option is the most high-quality, strength butyl rubber film is enough for 40-50 years for sure, and maybe even more. Plus, the rubber sealing in the fact that it runs perfectly. The water pressure in the pond will sooner or later lead to subsidence. In this case the film is stretched. PVC can crack or break up at the seams. Butyl rubber is a stretch like rubber, it can withstand considerable tension without consequences.
The dimensions of the film necessary for my pond, I calculated as follows: length equal to the length of the pond (4 m) + double the maximum depth (2.8 m) width of 0.5 m is defined similarly..
The film I spread on top of the geotextile, to be displayed on30, see the edge of the shore. I tried to smooth the wrinkles on the bottom and walls, but especially in this has not succeeded. I decided to leave as it is. Especially because folds will compensate for temperature variations and pulling it too tight it is just not necessary.
Pit, the laid butyl rubber film will keep the water in the pond
After the layout is necessary to fix the edgefilm. Leave them open on the ground can not be, as between the film and the walls of the pit will fall into the water. Inevitably, the emergence of bubbles of water, due to which the film will have to shoot. And it is very difficult, especially for large size pond.
I decided prikopat film and thus hard edgefix them. At a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the pond, I dug a groove depth of 15 cm. He laid into the edge of the film and covered them underground. Top overlaid the whole thing turf. The result was a real coastline, overgrown with grass!
Now you can run the water. I threw in the pit hose and pump the water pumped from the well. Water recruited several hours. As the film folds filling stray, they had spread. But in the end it turned out pretty uniform stretch.
Pond filled with water, standing for some time should be to install biobalance
And one more important detail about which ismention. Together with clean water from the well, I poured into the pond bucket of water from a natural body of water. It is necessary to accelerate the formation biobalance. In other words, the water from the reservoir to the existing biosphere will help to establish the same in the new pond. There will be a balance, the water turbid and turn green in a matter of days. And soon it will not resemble a pond and marsh with a greenish liquid. Activation will also contribute to the biosystem plants planted into the water on the bottom.
At a depth of 0.5 m I loaded the pump, the water is supplied to them in the upper cascade waterfall and a small garden fountain. Splitting water is regulated directly at the pump.
The circulation of water in the pond is due to the fountain and waterfall
Plants - a separate issue. I would like to put a lot of things to the pond at once, from the first days, creating the appearance of a natural, natural pond. So I went to the market and got there marsh irises, Callas, water hyacinth, a few nymphs. Greening the coast took a couple of bushes Lobel, monetchatogo loosestrife, bulb white callas.
Upon arrival it seemed to me a little, so IHe made a sortie to the nearest pond (from which drew water for biobalance) and dug a few young shrubs rogoznika. It will grow and clean the water. It is a pity that more than anything in this pond is not suitable. And that would not have to buy anything. Maybe you'll have better luck in a nearby pond, you will find all the plants for planting your own pond. After all, almost all aquatic plants grow in our natural waters. At a certain share of luck, you can find and pick sedge, rogoznik, yellow iris, marigold, sweet flag, derbeynik, Potbelly yellow and more.
On the upper terrace I put the boxes and balconiesbasket with upset rogoznikami, calla, water hyacinth, iris marsh. Soot in heavy fertile soil, pebbles on top of falling asleep to the fish not taken away the soil and uproot the roots.
The basket put nymphs - of my 4 pieces. Also falling asleep on top of pebbles. I put the basket on the middle terrace, the one that is 0.7 meters deep. Then, as the stalk growth will lower the basket below, has not yet been established permanently at 1-1.5 m above the water level.
In shallow water, planted in baskets, and drawers of water plants
Flowers nymphs are kept for a few days, then closed and lowered into the water
Lobelia and loosestrife monetchaty seated alongshoreline. There also planted a bulb calla. Loosestrife quickly became lower their branches directly into the pond. Soon the film can be seen on the rise will not be! All overgrown with grass, loosestrife, Calla and other plants planted.
First, the water in the pond was clean as a tear. I thought that it will be so. But after 3 days I noticed that Vodicka turbid, the bottom has not already seen. And then, a week later, she again became clear - to establish the biological equilibrium. I waited two weeks and decided it was time to run a fish - all conditions for its residence established.
I went to the bird market and bought several copies of the appropriate comets (almost goldfish) and carp - gold and silver. A total of 40 fish! Release all. Now frolic near a fountain.
Pond with fish running looks magical!
For comfortable living fish was hookedaerator. Compressor 6W, so he works continuously for electricity consumption is not expensive. In winter, an aerator is particularly useful. Oxygenated water and wormwood will be provided.
In this workshop, you can check out. I think that turned out very well. The most important indicator of this - pure water. As such, mechanical filtration I do not have. Balance regulated by a variety of plants, aerators, water flow through the waterfall and a fountain with a pump.
As to finance, the most fundsIt went on butyl rubber film. Pit dug myself if hiring an excavator or a team of diggers will have to pay, but the pit is dug quickly. Plants are not too expensive (and if they are taken from the natural pond, if at all - it is free), fish - too.
So it all really. If you are not afraid of considerable effort (especially in the digging of the pit) and the need for creativity - forward. In an extreme case, if the design was not lucky streak, flip through photos ponds in magazines or on the pages of specialized sites. Find what you like, and try to do something similar at home. And then - enjoy the results and their own ponds.