There is a section in the woodland, 14 acres, isempty. Since the plans - of its major buildings, the first thing I decided to mark the boundaries of their possessions. That is, to build a fence. One side of it, you might say, I was ready - as a neighbor's wooden fence. border residue was about 120 m. I decided that my fence will also be wood, to the style he merged with the neighbor's fence and made him a single structure.
Scoring in a search engine query "wooden fence", I found a lot of interesting pictures, most of all I liked the following option:
Basis bars - is shaped tubes 3 m, withboth sides covered with boards on 2 m. When installing, the lower part of 70 cm is immersed in concrete. To improve the metal adhesion to the concrete, to each pipe I welded on two fittings 20 cm piece of - at a distance from the edge of a 10 cm and 60 cm reinforcing rods length 20 cm due planned diameter hole 25 cm A mounting step (10 cm.. 60 cm) - the need to position the reinforcing elements at a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the concrete "shells" (its height 70 cm).
The pipes were painted in the layer 2, and their butts blow with foam. Of course, the foam - a temporary version of the waterproofing. How to find a suitable plug (seen in stores, selling plastic), put them.
In the bars drilled holes in the top 3 - in the. 10 cm, 100 cm and 190 cm Through these trim bars fixed the holes - 2 boards on each tube. To assemble furniture bolts used. Between the inner side boards fixed distance of 6 cm. Just such clearance is necessary, so that it included 2 Unedged board (4 cm) and vertical bar (2 cm).
The posts for the fence - shaped tubes, covered with boards
The next step - drilling holes to installcolumns. First counting was performed. I pulled the rope on the boundary of the site and every 3 m hammered pegs into the ground - this will be the point of drilling locations.
Since the drill I did not have, and take it outit was not a hand, I prefer to hire for this team with the necessary tools. The day 40 holes with a diameter of 25 cm, were drilled. Since the blades of the drill periodically rested in a very solid rock, the depth of the wells was uneven -. From 110 cm to 150 cm heterogeneity Then smooth out the gravel dumping.
The process of drilling wells
There were also dug two trenches, connecting previously drilled wells. One of the trenches need a crossmember sliding gates, and the other - under the mortgage (channel) roller bearings.
At the bottom of all wells sleep ASG through thisbedding made them equal to a depth of 90 cm. Established in them ruberoidnyj sleeve. Each bar, dropping into the sleeve, 20 cm above the bottom of the wells lifted. This is necessary so that the concrete poured into the hole, was not only at the sides but also at the end face of the pipe. He poured concrete, then served shtykovanie rod reinforcement. When installing monitored the vertical bars using the level and ropes. After hardening of the concrete, to the ground level in the wells of sleep CBC.
Bollards installed and concreted
All 40 columns stood in their places and have been securely locked. Then I started sewing the flight.
Covering of vertical planks served as a bottom-up as follows:
- First, measure the length between the posts.
- Chose the board with the bottom edge of the flat, it will be at the bottom.
- Sawing off end so that the board length was 1 cm shorter than the distance between the posts.
- Processed slice antiseptic.
- Inserts a board between the wood paneling of columns, it fixed the clamps. The distance between the ground and the bottom of the board - 5 cm.
- Reinforcement board screws, screwing them from the inside at a slight angle. I use the 2 screws at each end of the board.
- Measures the middle of the board and set the vertical arm to the center so that it does not touch the ground. Enshrines the rack with two screws, screwed into the top edge of the board.
- Establishes and recorded the second board on top of the board and the first vertical pillar. At the same screws that hold the vertical bar, this turned out to be overlapped by the second board.
- Likewise, the third and secured the remaining span of the board.
- Subsequent spans trimmed similarly.
After the third flight started to be producedskills. If in the beginning, before you fix the board, I have long exhibited it horizontally, then it ceased to do so. It was enough to move to 3-4 m, to see exactly everything is set or not. Also, I did not pull the rope from the top to check the verticality of the central rack. At the same time, the board established quite precisely, at the end of the construction, I checked it.
Spans, trimmed with vertical polished boards
For site is pine forest. To be able to freely go out there, I decided to make a gate in the fence. Everything happened almost by itself. Sheathing spans, I reached the place of the planned gate. After the measurements, he made a wooden frame, metal corners fastened boards.
Stitched frame boards. The result was a door. So how often to use the gate no one, I hung overhead door hinges. Handle all decided not to. It is not very much and need here. The door can be opened and closed by simply taking it for one and boards.
The absence of handles on the gate, making it almost invisible against the background of the fence
Gates recoiling, I decided to do. Armed with drawings, downloaded from the Internet, I drew a diagram based on the size of their flight.
Drawing automatic sliding gates
The drawing of the foundation under the gate
The bars at the gate, I made more powerful thanthe usual and ordinary. Took this pipe 2 to 4 meters (2 meters under the ground, on top of 2 m) with the section of 100x100 mm, joined their cross-bar 4 m. The result of n-shaped design, which I installed in the prepared pit. Then, follow the wiring to control the gate.
In addition to the pillars, the mortgage has been set forclips. Dvuhmetrovy unused channel 20, which are welded reinforcement rods 14. In addition, the center sill is welded a piece of the same sill with a hole for the output wires to the actuator.
Feet n-shaped structure was concreted to the bar and covered with a further tamper CBC. I performed the usual tamping log, turned out very tight, so far nothing has subsided.
Established posts I sewed boards as pillars spans.
Pillars at the gates were also sewn planks
The gates were welded under the scheme from the Internet. To frame used pipe 60x40 mm, welded inside the crossbar 40h20 mm and 20x20 mm. Horizontal jumper in the middle, I decided not to do.
Driving frame metal sliding gates
Mounted frame sliding gates
The next step - assembling the gate, adjacent togates. Poles for it were ready, one of them - a pillar of the gate, the other - for post-flight. Dimensions 200x100 cm gate. No bars, in addition to the welded internal profile 20x20 mm, I did not do. Before installing the gate, I took the wooden trim strips with the pillar, then set them again already carved grooves for hinges.
Metal gates and gate, I sanded and after - painted with black paint, the same that was used for the columns spans.
Everything was ready for the installation of components forsliding gates. I stopped at the fittings from the company "Alutech". After delivery, I rang for installers and found a team, have agreed to mount components. Mounting they are fully engaged, I just recorded the process.
Mounting the frame rail
Mounting pads and rollers
Setting the upper traps
Installing the lower trap
The door leaf and wicket I sewed boards, according to the same principle as the spans.
Here's a fence I got:
Wooden fence in the forest landscape
He had not gone through one winter, and showed greatthemselves. Maybe in the photos, it looks massive, but it is misleading. The fence is easy enough, but it is small sail through the gaps between the planks in the spans. Poles are well retained in the concrete, frost heave is not observed. And, most importantly, a fence fits perfectly into the landscape of the village in a forest.