After the construction of the house and garbage collection, ittime to elevate the site. He remembered a long-standing dream of the lawn - a lawn with emerald grass, no flower beds with vegetables. Just outside the house was a free space not occupied by farmland. It was decided to give a lawn. I started to read the information on this subject, and then - to plan the sequence in which to carry out the work and what seeds to plant. Just want to say that the laying of the lawn - it is many months. Personally, I have all phases, from the start of excavation to the contemplation of a decent-looking lawn, took about a year. I'll tell you how it was with me - will share their experiences, which I hope will help beginners "gazonovodam" to avoid many mistakes.
After reviewing the information on the topic, I came to the conclusion thatthe best grasses for lawns (in our case) is Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue. I started looking for a suitable grass mixture in stores. In most compositions - always ryegrass, which in our climate does not ice. To warm Europe - perfectly fit, but we ryegrass freezes in winter, a spring lawn wakes up noticeably thinned. As a result, I came across a single-species suitable grass mixture - of varieties of meadow grass True Blue Kentucky Bluegrass. Total bluegrass lawn ... Why not? Of course, the first year will have to take good care of him, at first bluegrass capricious. But a lawn with proper care is considered one of the most decorative. Resolved - bluegrass lawn to be!
So, I bought the seeds of bluegrass - 30% more than was recommended by the manufacturer. This is important, since the material can not germinate.
For myself, I brought the following scheme bookmark lawn:
- In the spring and summer of preparing the soil: planning, cultivating, leveling, packer.
- In early August, I spend a herbicidal treatment, get rid of weeds.
- At the end of August - fertilize the soil and sow the lawn. To take care of seedlings: watering, mow, weed control lead.
In such a situation, that is, when sown at the end ofsummer, the lawn will have time to grow and get stronger before the start of the cold weather. In winter he would have already formed, with a dense sod. And spring will look quite presentable.
With this scheme, and I stuck.
Preparation of land for lawn I started in spring,April. Perhaps this is the most difficult stage, on which depends the future appearance of the lawn. The works in the following sequence: cultivation, leveling, compacting (tamping). Rolling and compacting is usually repeated several times. This is what I read on smart sites and which decided to follow unconditionally.
The site chosen for the breakdown of the lawn
Initially, the soil in the area - heavy loam. It seems to be good, but for the lawn, as I understand it, we need a more friable earth. Therefore, to improve drainage and structure, I drove and scattered in the area of peat and sand.
It turned out the following: the bottom of my pillow loam on top - a mixture of sand and peat. To mix all the ingredients and get rid of weeds, I am by the cultivator, plowed land.
Plowing cultivator allows loosen the soil and make it smooth and remove weeds
This harrow was used for plowing the land for the lawn
Now it was necessary to level the site. Than? Initially thought to walk a rake, but I have a big area - 5 acres, smooth lawn not achieve. I decided to go the other way. Fed up of the shed 6 meters aluminum ladder, tied a rope to the edges.
Top gravity to put the load - a channelstones inside. It turned out something like a modernized building regulations, with which I went on the site and fro. Where should I leveled here and there slipped land. Control the process of laser level.
Alignment microrelief area - an important part of the preparatory work for the establishment of a lawn
After leveling paced roller. Properly shed land. The process of leveling-tamping-watering was repeated multiple times within two months to control the level of. By mid-summer, after the rains, on compacted ground in two hours it was possible to walk - hardly traces remained. Then I thought that this land can finish the work.
If the soil is compacted sufficiently to it should not be left a deep imprint on walking
Initially, I was generally against the useherbicides. But ... It seems to be plowed land, and during the summer are constantly tearing malignant weeds, but they all grew and grew. The prospect of endless weeding is not happy, especially because planting time is inexorably approaching. So I shed compacted pad, wait for the weeds and etch their "Roundup".
Then he removed the withered grass. Two weeks later, it was possible to start the crops. By the way, by that time, young weeds climbed again, but I quickly povydergivat - it is not difficult prepared soil.
As I understand it, some do not fertilize at all itslawns and fertilize them once a year, something long-playing. Probably, this approach has a place to be, but only on fertile soils, which originally laid nutrients. The soil on my site is not particularly nutritious, so I decided to go the traditional way and still make fertilizer before planting.
At this stage, I really handy drill Texas,where you can not just throw the seeds, fertilizer and bulk too. At first, I shed a good earth, and then - went through it with a drill, introduced ammophos (nitrogen and phosphorus 12-52) - 2 kg per one hundred square meters, as well as potassium chloride - 0.5 kg per one hundred square meters. The presowing fertilizer - particular attention to phosphorus. It speeds up the germination of seeds and activates the formation of the root system. Then, when the main care, need more fertilizer for the lawn.
Fertilizer before sowing lawn seed will speed germination
After spreading the pellets I harnessed into a small harrow and went spud. Harrow - this is optional, and you can use a rake.
Loosening the soil before sowing seeds bluegrass
Then came the seeding. I mixed the seeds with sand, and then divided the whole volume of the mixture into two piles. Loaded planter in one portion, performed sowing in the longitudinal direction. The second portion of the seed went to seed in the transverse direction. At the end, I walked around the sown rake to slightly to close up the seeds in the ground. Not more than 1 cm, so as not washed away by rain or wind drifted.
Lawn grass seeds can be slightly repaired, soil rake proryhlit
In any case, the roller compacted crops. And waited shoots.
I would like to draw attention to the next. I timed the planting to the 20th of August. At this time, as a rule, searing heat has not, during the rainy season begins and cloudy weather. My lawn in this respect fortunate. After sowing was cloudy, cool weather, often rain was so watered until germination was no need. If you choose a different sowing time, for example, in the early summer (all you can sow lawn from May to September), you have to constantly make sure that the seeds are not dried up. The soil should be kept moist, but then the seeds will germinate.
The heat would have watered 2-4 times a day,otherwise to experiment with lawn will have to give up - do not rise or rise in some areas (where soil moisture capacity was more or shade). To simplify the task with little watering in hot or dry season, it is desirable to cover the seeded agrovoloknom plot - "spandex", "Agrospanom" etc. Under the material seeds are protected from loss of moisture, wind, hot sun. Therefore, under the agrovoloknom lawn grass is rising faster than in open areas. However, as soon as it came up, "teplichku" recommended to remove. And take care of the lawn, in the usual, conventional mode.
The first shoots of my bluegrass lawn appearedon the 10th day of sowing. They were a little thin strings, uneven germination. I thought that would have doseivat, but no. With a delay of a few days the seeds hatch, and lagging.
As a young, newly ascended the lawn, it is best not to move, so as not to trample small grass
Just at this time came warming, rainthere was no time. I have laid on a site sprayers and watering the young bore every day, in the morning. Seedlings are very delicate, they should dry out a bit - everything they die. The land must be kept slightly vlazhnovatoy until sprouts appears more or less well-developed root system. Judging by my own experience, this happens when the grass reaches 4-5 cm. Then you can relax a little. But just a little. Prior to the first mowing of the land drying could be disastrous for the lawn, it is very sensitive to drought.
I hoped that the cold does not come beforetime and I have time to mow the lawn for the first time, to form a beautiful carpet and look at their handiwork in all its glory. And so it happened. Within 3 weeks herbage reached a height of about 8 cm, can be mowed. In the morning, I shed a good lawn mower pulled out - and more! Cut off the top third is no longer blades to prevent damage to young plants. Result liked: smooth, dense enough mat in warm tones. After mowing charged rains. Before winter, I have not watered the lawn and mowing. Experiment and observation were continued for lawn next spring.
In October, the lawn was the first time vskoshen
In the spring, after the snow, the lawn for a long time sitting "withoutmovement ", probably because of the cold. How were small sprouts, and remained, the color is also left much to be desired - kakoy- the grayish-yellow. But there were half-forgotten weeds. At first I tried to pull them, and then etch "Lintur". Weeds skukozhilas, further there were already less - himself lawn gradually forms a dense turf and replacing unwanted "neighbors". Yes, and mowing them does not act in the best way.
After a winter lawn color is poor
Visible growth lawn began when the ground is warm enough, to a temperature of 10-15 ° C. You can now look at the results - the grass is completely formed, well endured the winter and become stronger.
The lawn has already gone to the growth and turned green - May
Bluegrass lawn is completely formed - June
Aftercare Lawn I am doing this:
- I watered as needed. Not every day, but only after drying the ground. Watering must be abundant, but rare. In the autumn, before the cold weather, it is better to refrain from watering, otherwise the lawn bad perezimuet.
- Fertilizer. For your lawn, I use three times the feeding scheme for the season, for a total of 3 times with an interval of a month. I use any fertilizer for the lawn grass to an exemplary combination of the basic elements of a 4: 1: 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium).
- Mowing. In the second year of life of the lawn, I switched to a weekly mowing each time Cut off no more than one-third the length of the grass.
These rules help me keep the lawn in good condition. The result I am satisfied, I believe that the experiment with lawn I have failed.