When it comes time to pave the track, the more likelyonly suburban areas using paving slabs. It is much more aesthetic than concrete or asphalt, and it is not inferior in strength. The easiest way to hire craftsmen who own stacking technology, but if you can not pay about $ 10 per square, it is possible to retrain on a holiday in Mostovshikov and putting his hands. The main thing - to observe the technology, which is not so difficult to find the necessary tools and determine the "cushion", which you will be putting the finishing material. It can be created from a mixture of sand and cement, gravel and concrete. Consider the cases in which laid paving slabs on a concrete foundation and what nuances should be considered for installation and operation.
The concrete base is bathed andustyvshuyu flat area on which to be laid paving slabs. This method provides a much greater strength of the coating, rather than sand-cement pad so that it is used in places where the tiles will put pressure heavy machinery or frequent traffic congestion. In addition, to align all the tiles at one level much easier if the bottom is not a mobile mixture and a solid foundation. It will not shrink during curing, will not sag and other problems associated with poor rammer. Therefore, owners who do not have experience in construction, but decided to make a track on their own, in a manner of laying simplify leveling coating in a single plane.
The concrete base under the paving site provides increased strength, but it is more difficult to create than to lay tiles on the sand-gravel mix
Yet, laying paving slabs on concreteIt used infrequently, because the technology has its own nuances associated with tap water from the surface of the tiles. In ordinary sand-cement method of rainfall goes through hygroscopic base in the soil and do not cause any harm to the coating. If the concrete is poured, the water that seeps under the paving stones, can not go deeper as the monolithic substrate simply do not miss. As a result, it gets stuck between the substrate and tile, tile in the seams, and as soon as the frosts hit, starts to expand, pushing the cover up. As a consequence, the paving may vspuchilis some locations, to crack at the edges and so forth.
Therefore, when pouring the concrete base pay special attention to sanitation: create linevki, point vlagopriemniki, laid paving stones with a bias in a certain direction and so forth.
If properly arrange all that bytracks will be much more durable than on the sand-cement cushion. You will be able to lay out the most complex patterns of fantasy with perfect clarity the horizontal surface.
First spend a breakdown of the site, whichwill pave: drive in the pegs and put the so-called red marks. Thus the term builders represent taut thread that delineates the boundaries of the future height of your site. Take an ordinary twine, tie it to the pegs on the altitude where the tiles will come to an end. Do not forget to make a slope of 5 degrees in the thread to the site of the future water intakes.
Even when laying narrow alleyways red marks still put up to get a smooth edge, a perfect horizontal line and the correct angle for a water drain
Then check how many centimeters freespace from the thread to the ground. If less than thirty - remove all superfluous shovel and taken away in a wheelbarrow to do well. The fertile soil can be emptied directly into the garden, or in places where beds are planned.
Edge finished earth "trough" is at oncestrengthen the borders. Some artists put curbs after pouring the concrete, but in this case it is necessary to protect the area from the edge of shedding ground, ie place formwork. Therefore inexperienced Mostovshikov first option is preferable.
If you just set the borders, you will not have to spend time creating formwork and then dismantle it, and the concrete will fill the area with no gaps
If you use a border, which is 50 cm height, then:
- still dripped trench 30 cm deep;
- sleep ballast layer (about 10 cm);
- putting grout (1.5 cm);
- it put the curb so that the top edge after the installation was at 2-3 cm lower than the edge of the paving stones. This is in order to curb the water does not linger on the site, and helped her lead.
At the height of the curb at the depth of the trench is reduced accordingly.
The height of the curb should be slightly lower than the surface of the pavers to provide a rapid precipitation runoff from the site and not allow moisture to stagnate
One day after ustyvaniya border can beginpouring concrete. If you are creating a platform on which to drive technology, particularly the large, concrete foundation should be reinforced. For this fit fittings (not more than ten in thickness), which are knitted with a mesh size of 15-20 cm. If the same track will only pedestrian, it need not be reinforced.
Concrete is desirable to pour the sand, which will be an additional drainage for seeping water and allow it to go quickly into the soil
To moisture, ranked by paving slabs onconcrete could seep on, and not to stand in, it is necessary to establish special drainage holes. For this purpose, asbestos pipes, cutting it into pieces 15-20 cm high (the height should match the height of the concrete layer, which you then will flood). Pieces of asbestos is spread throughout a calculation on one sq.m. After pouring the concrete they are not removed. And you can create a hole in the shape of squares dosochek but ustyvaniya after concrete have to remove tree.
Now we are preparing a normal concrete using cement150-200 mark. Fill it with a layer of 15 cm - if no reinforcement 20 cm - if stacked armature. If a large area is filled, then every three meters it is necessary to create the so-called expansion joint. It is necessary to prevent cracking of the base in winter. Seam easiest thing to do, going into the concrete edge of the board, in half a centimeter thick. After pristyvaniya them removed, and the void is filled with an elastic filler. Top coat with joint concrete to level with the rest of the surface.
A day later removed the wooden formwork of drainage holes and fill them with concrete flush with the edge of fine gravel.
The procedure works here such:
- Sieved sand, cement interfere with 6: 1 (easiest in a concrete mixer);
- Fall asleep pad layer to 10 cm (thickness of the paving stones in view), i.e. thick cushion + tile thickness must advocate for the red mark about 2 cm (Cape shrinkage).
- Ramming machine or toptuhoy (log, where the bottom is nailed wide board, and the top-packed strap handle).
- Check the tension of the red tag to the slope was. By the way, keep in mind that is better to put pegs back often because even very tight thread gives sagging of 1 mm per meter.
- Spread on the ground beacons (pipes with a diameter of20 mm). They should be firmly press down on the pillow, from lace to the lighthouse was a distance equal to the thickness of your tiles + 1 cm on the seal. The distance between the beacons of a little less than the length of your rules.
- Then take a rule and contractible, focusing on lighthouses, excess sand and cement pads to get a perfectly flat surface.
- We take out the first lighthouse, where start laying tile (the pillow can not set foot!), Fill the furrow with the same mixture and start laying the tiles on a concrete base.
That's how it looks:
If a large area is created, it is easier to mix sand and cement in a concrete mixer, and then bring up a wheelbarrow ready-made mixture
In the narrow lanes rule may be a flat board, which cut off the edge, and as a beacon - the edge of the established border
When laying pavers extreme tiles will have to be customized, so the pre-grinders locate and install the diamond wheel to make perfectly straight cuts
If all the previous steps you followed toconscience, then put paving stones will be easy. Tiles are not placed back to back, and with seams about 5 mm. They will not allow the tiles to crack, when the coating is to "walk" on the temperature and moisture changes.
Some owners begin laying the tiles with the visible side of the platform, so that all sections and fit turned out in places, the least noticeable to the eye
Begin laying the curb. Typically, labels on moving downwards, in the direction the water will drain.
Try to keep the seams straight, not less than 5 mm between the tiles to cover looked symmetrically, and in the winter when expanding the tiles are not squeezed one another
Align the surface of each tile,pristukivaya mallet (rubber hammer) and checking horizontal level. In the future, you need to flatten the entire surface of the vibratory plates, tiles to sit exactly on the stretched skin, but if not, then once during installation are wide a scrap board. He lay flat on a few tiles and beat with a mallet to the desired height.
Tile seams can be filled with the same mixture,from which you have created a pillow or fine sand. The first option creates a monolithic coating that transmits less moisture inside. Moreover, in the joints rarely grows grass and moss. But if you call in on a tile in the winter heavy traffic, and the seams and edges of the tiles may crack because there is no termoshvov. Any material, including paving expands at low temperatures. A gap for this extension is absent. There is a lot of pressure in the joints, and if at this time to cover will pass something heavy, concrete can not withstand the load.
The seams, covered with sand, perfectly preserve the integrity of the coating, but through these sediments immediately fall under the tile. So that water abstraction must be done at the highest level.
First, full-court scatter sand or sand-gravel mixture, then gently sweep it into the joints between the tiles
To fill the joints with a mixture of sand, or use common household broom. Composition dispersed on the surface of the cover and gently sweep the joints and unnecessary - removed.
The site is ready. It is advisable not to walk on it for three days, to cushion satiated moisture from the ground and hardened. It is better to put a board or plywood, not to move under the pressure of the body edge tiles.