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Construction metal humpback bridge: step master class

Construction metal humpback bridge: step master class

There on my site is one feature - a trickle,flowing from farm fields. To somehow fit it into their environment, and to ensure safe passage through it was to bridge the gap. He makes of wood about 10 years ago, so already rather rotten and lost its former strength. It seems from the outside and looks organic, but to pass on it is already scary. And let the children even more so! So I decided to remove the old bridge and build a new one - from metal. A detailed description of the building and I would like to bring to your court.

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I immediately decided on the design of new buildings- The bridge will be hooked, with curved metal handrails and wooden flooring. He found a suitable drawing on the Internet, some of his remade under the existing realities. Then, along the way, some sections were replaced by others, varied sizes. But on the whole project it turned out to work and has been implemented.

Drawing design garden bridge

The construction of the bridge on the working drawings

Step 1. Receipt of blanks and welding sides of the bridge

Curved parts of the structure have been ordered from the localmasters. Unfortunately, they were not entirely responsible, so some details I had to bring to mind their own. About this I will mention later.

Billets bent bridge elements

Brought workpiece bent bridge elements

Thus, the details were brought, unloaded. For handrails I picked up 4 of the arc, the most similar in form. It was not so easy - they are all different (thank you, "masters"!). Bench under such designs I have, so I started cooking a side wall on a paved area.

Just spread the arc and the uprights onsurface horizontality achieved by placing them under the various pieces of wood and plywood. It turned out quite convenient. Verifies the laser level, all smooth, no "screws".

Compound curved handrail bridge with vertical uprights

Compound curved handrail with vertical uprights (by welding)

The first rim cooked, then laid on top of itelements of the second side and is also connected by welding them. The lower part of the pillars of the bridge will be located under the ground, they will not be seen, so I made these pieces from the corner. Its in my studio pylilos much, nowhere to go, except tubes for "underground" are often used sorry.

On foot Navariya any metal-cutting teeth to better support held in the concrete.

The frame for the side of the bridge is welded

The frame for the side of the bridge is welded

Metal trim on the pillars of the bridge

On the stand, which will be concreted, Navar "fangs" of metal scraps

Step 2. The destruction of the old

It is time to dismantle. For a couple of hours it was pulled an old wooden bridge that has worn. Space for the new bridge cleared.

Old wooden bridge

Old wooden bridge overage

Old Bridge dismantled

The old bridge is destroyed, for the installation site released

Step 3. Compound sidewalls in one design

On the wheelbarrow to the brook, I drove almost readysidewall and various profiles necessary for construction. On-site welded to the sidewalls headscarves and the main planks holding. Heat sealing all voids where water can theoretically get.

Electrode not sorry, because of welding qualityholding parts depends on how safe will move across the bridge. The sutures were intact, I thought that all of them can be seen will not. And the extra work to nothing.

Welded retaining elements for flooring

Welded retaining elements for flooring

Two sidewalls of the bridge structure are welded to one

Two sidewalls of the bridge structure are welded to one

For stiffness Navariya buttresses on the sides. As for me, they do not look very organic in the background curving sides. They are too straight, sharp, in general, not quite what I wanted. But the rigidity demands victims. Let them remain such.

Buttresses are used to increase the rigidity

Buttresses are used to increase the rigidity

The lower part of the bridge supports will be in concrete, I covered them with paint - later they no longer have access.

Step 4: Install and concreting of the bridge supports

And then he proceeded to drilling wells. I took a bit and almost at full depth (about a meter) drilled 2 wells on both banks of the creek.

Drilled four wells for the bridge supports

Drilled four wells for the bridge supports

I put in the wells of the tower structure, Alignvertical building level. For the stiffness of the installation space filled in with rubble stone wells. Now support stood like a glove and never shifted.

Next - pouring concrete. At first I did molten batch to concrete without problems seeped between the stones. The next batch was already thicker. I do not know what, in the end, turned out concrete grade, but I'm sure that bridge on such a solution will stand for many years and did not stir.

The bridge is installed and concreted

The bridge is installed, it supports concreted in wells

Step 5. Internal welding arcs and balusters

At first I weld on the inner sidewall of the arc.

Internal arc welded bridge

Internal arc welded to the sides of the bridge uprights

Between them, in accordance with the plan, should be located stand-balusters. They had vymeryat in place and only then cut - no one was not the same. Step by step, I welded all the balusters.

Balusters are fixed in their places

Balusters are fixed in place - between the inner arcs

Step 6. Fix curved handrail elements

It would seem that with the metallic elementsover, but not far from it. One drawback that made my irresponsible master, bending metal, did not give me rest. I mean the end of the curved handrail.

Curved end of the handrail does not hold water

Curved end of the handrail does not hold water

They looked awful, so without thinking twice, I have them cut down. And then I decided to make their own, in a decent performance.

End handrails were sawn

End handrails were sawn

Bending machines I do not have to do it orbuy for this purpose - is irrational. The only way that seemed acceptable, consisted of cutting notches on pieces of metal pipes and bending them already.

At first I figured, given the difference between thelengths of the inner and outer edges, the number of notches and width. On a piece of pipe charted location of the incisions in increments of 1 cm Rezai first range of 1 mm, and then dorezal (not quite) a little wider -. 2.25 mm range.

On the metal pipes are made incisions

On the metal pipes are made incisions

It turned out something like a washboard,which it has been possible to bend. That's what I did, fixed in the right form and brewing outside. The inner part is not touched, he did not want to suffer later with a sweep.

Bent bars for the end of the bridge handrails

Through incisions, I was able to bend the workpiece and give them the desired shape

Since initially blank endings handrails were taken with a reserve, after fitting in place, the excess part of the pipe cut. The blanks were welded to the rail.

Open ends, I also decided to make in order not toput the plastic plugs. They would look at the alien metal structure and cheaply. After welding bent parts have been thoroughly cleaned to a shine. We received an excellent, almost perfect handrails!

The bridge with welded ends curved handrail

The bridge with welded ends curved handrail

In order to protect the coast from the blur, it was necessary to strengthen their pipes and planks. All these reinforcing structures will not be seen, so the singular beauty I did not try. The main thing that turned out reliably.

The reinforcing structure for holding the shores of the blur

The reinforcing structure for holding the shores of the blur

Step 7 Caulking and painting

It is time to correct another defect thatallowed manufacturers of metal blanks. Some profiles have been of poor quality, with visible dents. It had to somehow clean. We came to the aid automotive putty for metal - I had 2 types.

First I filled the deepest dent roughfiller with fiberglass, plaster finish used on top. At the same time finishkoy plastered and the inner surface of the handrail endings (where there was no welding). We had to work quickly, as the plaster hardens in a moment. Slightly hesitated and everything is frozen, it was necessary to make a new batch.

Irregularities and dents were closed automotive putty

Irregularities and dents were closed automotive putty

Now the metal surface of the bridge seem almost ideal. It can be painted. I chose to design a classic color - black. All metal surfaces were painted in 2 layers.

The metal parts of the structure are painted with black paint

The metal parts of the structure are painted with black paint - a very different kind!

Step 8. The device of wooden flooring

The time has come to lay the bridge board. In the shed I lay perfectly quality board made of larch with a smooth surface such as "corduroy" for several years. Her and I decided to use.

Board of larch for the bridge deck

The board has a ribbed surface - the floor will not be slippery

Unfortunately, there is one unpleasant larchfeature. When desiccation it produces sharp splinters, which can be easily scratched and hurt. Pulling the board out of the barn, I saw that, and this time the whole front side was littered with such slivers. The downside was in the best shape, so it was decided to use as a front for the flooring.

Boards need to be prepared. I treated them with antiseptic soil - from rotting and to increase service life. Dry. And then covered with waste oil. The idea was to cover the floor varnish, but I did not dare. Still, there is a high probability that the varnish crack in wet conditions.

I do not want to put the work of many days under threat. So I focused on oil and antiseptic - this should be enough for several years of operation. However, the oil layer to update the plan every year, not to worry about possible problems with rot.

Boards are treated with antiseptic and oil

Boards are dried in a vertical position, after processing antiseptic and oil

Then I screwed the board to horizontalholders of the deck with self-tapping screws for metal. Between the boards left small distance that has got the water to drain into a trickle and not linger on the floor. Still, wood flooring remains a weak link in the bridge and should by all means to prevent the possibility of decay in the existing wet conditions.

This results in a good humpbacked bridge, can be used safely. And pass without wetting his feet, it is possible, and there is a decorative function.

Humpback metal bridge with wooden flooring

The final form of the metal humpback bridge with wooden flooring

I hope my master class will not be useless, and someone will come in handy in the landscape works - will be only too happy!

Ilya A.

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